Day Five - Cooma to Thredbo

Distance: 104.21 km
Riding time: 5:48:55
Average speed: 17.9 km/h
Maximum speed: 60.1 km/h
Bum soreness: 8/10



Brrr - it's chilly in Thredbo! 2 degrees and -2 if you count the wind chill factor. Thank heavens for the boffins behind GoreTex technology - it kept me nice and dry. It rained and even hailed leaving Cooma and coming into Thredbo. Otherwise the weather was gorgeous. The cold is actually great for riding up these mammoth hills - I'm not sweating like crazy all the time.

I wish I was in this car, climbing up the mountains. 

It was a stunning ride into Thredbo. The climb started as soon as I left Cooma. I stopped in Berridale (TwoMoo Cafe is great) for a snack and then in Jindabyne for lunch. I also bought myself a rear-vision mirror from the local bike shop. The guy was helpful but took about 1.5 hours to help as he was very busy with a bus-load of tourists ahead of me.

My mirror is so wide-angled, it's not much good for anything 

besides putting my lipstick on in the morning ;)

Whilst I waited at the bike shop I watched these two cute-as dogs. 
Not much funnier in this world than the trepidation 
dogs display upon meeting other dogs. Hilarious!

After a longer-than-expected stop in Jindabyne I hit the road and that's when things got as hilly as they were pretty. Everytime I thought the worst was over I'd turn another corner and see another gargantuan hill that would be met with swear words and sullen shakes-of-the-head.

A winding road, flanked by snow gums.

Thankfully I had some of the most pretty scenery to make up for the quadriceps torture. Grand, sweeping vistas of deep valleys and snow-capped peaks. Truly stunning. I highly recommend riding through Thredbo.

I was pretty freakin' exhausted by the time I got here and I'd run all out of food and was down to my emergency 1 litre of water. I was ecstatic with the thought of a hot shower and a warm bed. I just had dinner and watched an episode of The Wire. I'm amazed at my appetite. I felt like the biggest pig at the pizza resturant. I'm sure the lady thought I was waiting for a friend to arrive as I ordered a large pizza (they didn't have a family size), main-sized ravioli, main-sized Greek salad and a garlic bread. I reckon I could still ho into some noodles.

Some of my huge meal tonight.

Time for bed as I've a big day ahead of me. I'm a little worried about it actually. There is no place to get food or water so I'll have to rely on my provisions and the forecast is for snow! I'd love to see some snow but it would really mess with my cycling. Tomorrow is probably going to be the hardest day of the whole trip.

This is my route tomorrow:


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Day Four - Canberra to Cooma

Distance: 104.26 km
Riding time: 4:26:26
Average speed: 23.4 km/h
Maximum speed: 57.2 km/h
Bum soreness: 6/10

Jill and her beautiful kids.

Today started off great. Firstly, I slept like a log in Sam's spare room. I felt so much better after a good nights sleep. Secondly, I had a good breakfast and a quick check of the email – loving Sam's good Canberra Internet. I was on the road by 9 am and on my way down the Monaro Highway towards Cooma.

Despite the name I didn't see a single Monaro. As far as Australian muscle cars go I did however, see a Phase 3 GTHO and a 351 GT. Cars aside there was also plenty of road kill (including a 'roo) in various states of decomposition. Some I could actually smell before I saw them!

Pretty uneventful riding except for the speed. I was flying thanks to my new tire. The wobble on my bike had gone and I was finally comfortable doing 50 kph + speeds. Because of this I was making awesome time until the winds kicked in. If I had a sail I could have hoisted it and sailed all the way to Cooma no problems. At times I got a great tail wind helping me up the hills. Other times it was an awful cross wind so strong it blew me off the road a couple of times.

I stopped for lunch in a classic, tiny middle-of-nowhere Aussie pub in Bredbo. I considered having lunch there and asked what they had: a few pies – all with meat and a steak sandwich. I decided to hold out for Cooma. I did stop for a drink and some chips (crisps) and they were very friendly. They even filled up my water bottle with ice – perfect for a hot day!

Hot and dry in the middle of nowhere,

I did ride past some fellow cycling tourers. They were English and were riding all the way to Perth. We had a great little chat. They told me of some of the bad treatment they'd received from cars: swearing, beeping, intimidating driving, middle fingers, etc. They were quite shocked by it and I felt bad for them, even embarrassed. In Australia cyclists seem to be second class citizens. It's sad to see. I think we're missing out on a great opportunity not only for healthier communities but also economic benefits. Tourists love to come and see Australia. Many are from cycling-friendly European countries. It'd be better for everyone if cycling touring was a more attractive option for tourists than it is now.

A little kid that can't spell lost their cat, awww.

I made it to Cooma where they had a McDonalds. I never thought I'd say this but I was very happy to see the golden arches as I rode into town. I'm not “lovin' it” but I am lovin' the free WiFi they have!

I stayed with Jill and her wonderful family. It was lovely being in a family home, makes me look forward to living at home.

A little hilly just outside Canberra.

Leaving the A.C.T. and entering New South Wales again.

Day Three - Bundanoon to Canberra

Today was a disaster that turned into a blessing. I got a puncture because I'd wore right through my rear tire. I needed a new one. I went to a bike shop in town who admonished me for not carrying a spare. As it turns out I have quite an unusual wheel size and it was looking like I would not be able to get a new tire. I tried another bike shop: the Green Grocer bike shop. They managed to find something that they could make fit and really sorted me out. The lovely old guy there even changed it for me and gave me some handy tips from his touring days. I can't recommend these guys highly enough.

Fed up with carrying more stuff than I needed, I decided to send a bunch of crap ahead of me to Melbourne. All this took many hours and I didn't have enough time to ride to Canberra. I caught the bus instead. So today I hardly did any riding at all. I think I needed a bit of a rest after that freakin' ball-breaking Jamberoo Mountain Road.

I checked out Parliament House and loved it. I actually got to see the Senate debating the ETS bill. It was a very lively affair. It reminded me of childhood playground arguments – only these guys were 50 years older and wearing suits. It was slanderous and entertaining. The free tour of Parliament House was very informative too – did you know that to choose the green colour of the House of Representatives they picked some gum leaves from the Bathurst area?

Tonight I checked out some of Canberra's restaurants and bars with Sam and Dan. I was surprised at how much I liked Canberra. It was a Friday afternoon and the streets were packed with people enjoying a bevvy in the sun. We drove up to the lookout over Canberra too: very pretty.

The big sheep in Goulburn.

One of the great bridges leading to Parliament House.

Canberra, the grass really is greener.

Fun and games overlooking Canberra.

Myself, Sam and Dan messing around with our mobiles and time exposure.

Day Two - Wollongong to Bundanoon

Distance: 117.43 km
Riding time: 6:25:09
Average speed: 18.2 km/h
Maximum speed: 46.9 km/h
Bum soreness: 6/10

Today nearly wrecked me. It started off well enough: some nice bike paths south of Wollongong past the industrial heart of Port Kembla. Then I cut inland through the strikingly-lush and green hinterland. I stopped for a photo at the big KM sign and that's where the hurt began.

Climbing Mount Jamberoo Road was an absolute killer. There were parts so steep that I couldn't not ride up them. Firstly I just don't think I was physically capable but also the incline was so great that my back panniers were tipping the bike over!

Every metre was hard-won. It was a tough slog getting up that son-of-a-mountain. Finally I did and had some nice curvy roads. Unfortunately there was almost no shoulder to speak of and was very nearly killed by a huge track gunning it along the road.

I stopped at the Robertson pie shop that I'd heard so much about and had two as a snack. Riding all day gives you the appetite of several horses. The pies were good and just what I needed for the rest of the day's journey.

I finally made it to Bundanoon, absolutely exhausted. I stayed in the pretty, Tudor-style pub and was pleased to see they had an all-you-can-eat special for dinner. I think I nearly ate them out of business. I had a pint of Guinness and watched a couple of episodes of The Wire before a well-deserved sleep.

A good hearty breakie for the hard slog ahead.

Many kms to go.

I was absolutely stuffed riding up that road!

Wildlife!

Day One - Sydney to Wollongong

Distance: 59.52 km
Riding time: 2:55:08
Average speed: 20.3 km/h
Maximum speed: 44.2 km/h
Bum soreness: 3/10

Today was a measly 60 km and will probably turn out to be the shortest day on the whole trip. Just as well too as it took my until 2pm to get ready to leave Surry Hills. I left Surry Hills with a heavy heart (and panniers!). I've loved living in Sydney for two years but I'm also looking forward to coming home to Melbourne.

Within the first kilometer my panniers had come completely off. Note to self: be careful of bumps at speed. Otherwise it was a good, sunny day and I made reasonable time to Wollongong. I stopped at the beautiful Stanwell Tops for some pics. I loved the coastal road leading into the 'Gong. A feat of engineering with a beautiful view.

I stayed with the wonderful Catherine and dinner with her awesome (and hilarious!) housemate and uni friend.



It was a pretty uneventful run until I got to the picturesque Stanwell Tops. Some great views to be had down to the coast.

Me, pretty happy with my progress so far.

A beautiful little cottage on the coast.

My wonderful hosts in Wollongong and their fantastic view.

My route

I've decided on a rough idea of a route. I've decided against the coast and opted for the mountains. Aparently it's much prettier. My route will be as follows (ignore the coastal one):


View Sydney to Melbourne ride in a larger map

Before setting off

I'm sitting here in my lounge room in Surry hills. The couch is comfy and I'm imagining that this is probably about as comfy as I'm going to get in the next two weeks.



Here is my ride:



I've longed and loathed this day. I'm stoked about the chance to ride to Melbourne and experience a great slice of Australia. However, I could really have used some more training... more, I mean any training!